On any given day, there are times when everything clicks along status quo, kitchens humming, customers filling tables, team members bustling around and getting the job done. Then in sneaks a little reminder. Maybe it’s a mask, a regular guest coming back for the first time after a long absence, or a quick flashback memory of how fully COVID-19 moved in and threatened to derail an industry that, just months before, had been expected to ring up sales of $899 billion. It came up $240 billion short, according to the National Restaurant Association.